Every vet will have a vaccine interval that they choose to follow. In general vaccines need to be given every 2 – 4 weeks until they have had three full sets of puppy vaccines. We do 8 , 12, 16, and either titer or revaccinate at 20 weeks. 

After puppy vaccines they will need titer tested or a booster once a year.

Generally yes. Some puppies can have bad vaccine reactions that can be remedied by pre-administration of Benadryl. But generally speaking yes. It’s also important that they get numerous rounds because we don’t necessarily know when mom’s immunity given to them through the first milk wears off. That’s why it’s a window of time in-between doses and it’s done multiple times. If they’re vaccinated while they still have mom’s passive immunity they just metabolize the vaccine and it doesn’t create lasting immunity.

This varies state to state as each has their own laws on Rabies vaccines. Most will be that they need their initial vaccination before 16 weeks old, a booster vaccine one year later, and then boosters every 3 years for the remainder of their lifetime.

When your vet advises that it’s safe. Typically this is when the puppy has completed 3 full rounds of puppy vaccines & waiting a few weeks after the last one. This falls around 16-20  weeks old but could be younger if you titer test and get results that show they’re immunized.

We require a spay/neuter contract that states after 1 year old but before they are 2 years old. On the general subject though, there’s a lot of new research about this so you’ll probably ask 5 different vets/breeders/people and get 5 different answers. I say at or after one year old but before two years old. With some conditions delayed alteration can be good, but then if you wait too long they can start to develop cancer, could get pyometra or a false pregnancy (females), or start exhibiting behaviors you don’t want. That's why we stay somewhere in-between being really conservative but not delaying too much. 

Puppies can pickup worms and other paracites in their enviornment--it's very common. Because of this, dogs and puppies need a continual deworming plan from their veterinarian. In most cases the easiest option is to get a prescription for a broad-spectrum chewable that deworms and protects them from fleas, ticks, and heartworm.

We feed all of our dogs and puppies Purina Pro Plan Diets. The puppies specifically get Purina Pro Plan Small Breed Formula. 

If you don't want to use this food after the first month of bringing your puppy home I would choose a food from one of the main manufacturers (Royal Canin, Hill's Science Diet, or Eukaneba) as they produce food that meets WASAVA's reccomendations for pet food engineering, testing, and manufacturing.

Please don't assume that these major dog food brands are bad, make your judgement to switch foods based on your dog or puppy's body condition and fecal consistency. If they are both excellent I would not switch.

No, I wouldn't. Raw food is known to harbor bacteria and paracites that are harmful. Even if dogs ate what they caught ages ago and are decendent from wolves they have evolved tremendously since then. Our dachshunds look nothing like wolves and it is logical to assume that their physiological needs have evolved just as much as their exterior apperance. 

If you're persistent on not feeding kibble I would work closely with a canine nutritionist and forulate a diet plan that adds a cooked, whole food diet on top of at least 30% kibble.

We only produce miniature and longhaired Dachshunds. The only possible exception being if a puppy outgrows the classification for 'miniature' (under 11 lbs at 1 year old). We've not experienced that yet but it's always a genetic possibility.

For colors we can have many different possibilities but we will not have any isabella, blue, or dapple puppies.

Possible colors we do produce are black & cream or tan, chocolate & cream or tan, and shaded cream or ee cream/red. We also have a lot of piebald carriers!

Our puppies are generally $3,000 regardless of color or gender. 

Our breeding adults are health tested in accordance with our breed's parent club, the Dachshund Club of America (DCA). This includes a cardiac exam, companion animal eye registry (CAER) exam by a board-certified veterinary opthamologist, and patella luxation exam. All of these exam results are then registered with the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA). We also DNA test for genetic inheritable conditions. 

In a vast majority of circumstances no. For experieced breeders we may allow breeding rights but will always require that the dog be health tested and results registered with OFA for cardiac, CAER, and patellar luxation. Plus a DNA panel (not with OFA) before the code to change the AKC registration type will be given. 

If you're interested in breeding Dachshunds and have already completed a lot of research I'd be happy to answer questions as well and wouldn't immedietly disqualify you for possible breeding rights.

We limit our females to 4 total litters before they are spayed. If a mom isn't enjoying motherhood though we access if there are any issues and spay her earlier.

After a mom is done having litters she will be spayed and either be offered as an available adult for adoption with strict contracts or remain here with us as a pet. It really just depends from dog to dog on what we decide.

Yes, whether an adult female is being offered for a retirement home or we have a wonderful prospect who is a near miss on being a qualified breeder, we will occassionally have an adult Dachshund available.

No we do not. It's something I've considered for the future but I love Dachshunds just for the sake of being amazing dogs within our family home. Showing is a whole other world that comes with it's pros and cons.